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Keep your knots to a simple few and practice them regularly.
1. The Figure-8 Knot
(stronger than a double-bowline if tied correctly, but not as easy to untie after being loaded.)
using a figure-8 at the end of the rope serves two purposes:
a. keeps you from rappelling off the end of the rope
b. provides a loop to stand in while you rig for your next move. example of simple figure-8 knot
figure-8 follow-through knot
2. The Alpine Butterfly Knot
- the strongest middle of a rope knot with the bonus that it is the easiest to untie after being loaded
the simple butterfly knot example
The Alpine Butterfly knot is a favorite: easy to learn, strong in both directions of pull, and maintains its shape even when nothing is ties in it.
example of alpine butterfly knot
** Bonus: its easy to tie with gloves on.
3. Double Sheetbend Knot
(strongest for joining two ropes and the only real knot to join two ropes of different diameter.)
( the double sheetbend knot is much easier to untie after being loaded than double-fisherman.)
4. Prusik Knot -a simple cinching knot-a standard four-coil knot
5. Machard/Klemhiest Knot - strongest clinching knot (can be tied with webbing)
6. Munter Hitch - good for belaying and descending.
This knot is braked by hand
7. The Timber Hitch Knot
The Timber Hitch is great for hauling heavy items because it works
on direct friction.
The knot is user friendly because if you loosen the rope or jerk the line, the knot loosens and can be freed quickly.
The Timber Hitch is a great knot for working with fallen timbers and in building construction.
Because when you need them, it is not the time to fumble around trying to remember how to tie them.
More Knot Links:
on the web
there's also a mountaineering book called "Freedom of the Hills"
which has a section on knot tying.
here are some websites that give some basic instruction and pictures of knots
The Clinch Knot
The Clinch Knot is a very popular and effective knot.
Its also easy to master.
Pass the line through the eye of the hook, or swivel.
Make five turns around the line.
Pass the end of the line through the first loop, above the eye, and then through the large loop.
Draw the knot into shape.
Slide the coils down tight against the eye.
The Surgeon's Knot is a good knot to use when two different line sizes are being joined.;
Lay the two lines against each other, overlapping about 10 inches
Working the two lines as one, tie an Overhand Knot.
It will be necessary to pull one line (say the leader) completely through this loop.
Pull the leader through this loop again.
Pass the other end through the loop.
The formed knot can now be worked into shape.
The Nail Knot <-- as done by Kilroys
The Scaffold Knot
The Scaffold knot is a much simpler knot. And it also works great. It lets the hook swing freely on the line.
The Dropper Loop Knot
The dropper loop is a better method of forming a loop, or loops, in the line above the sinker is to use the old Dropper Loop.
This draws into a knot that stands out at right angles to the line. The loops can be made long enough to have a hook set on them. Many anglers use this knot for multiple hook catfish rigs.
The Bobber and Leech Rig:
This is probably the most effective or innovative rig for fishing with leeches or night crawlers on
shallow rock piles.
First slip the slip bobber over the line, then tie on a number 8 short shanked hook.
Place a BB shot six
inches from the hook and a larger shot 10 to 15 inches above.
The depth is controlled by tying a rubber band around your line at the desired depth above the slip bobber.Set up the rig so the BB shot is just barely above the bottom and let the waves do the rest.
The Slip Bobber Rig:
slip bobber is a float that slides freely along the angler's fishing
Conventional bobbers - the ones that attach directly to the line - have 3 serious drawbacks:
1) The depth at which they can be set is pretty much limited to the length of the angler's rod because anything more is too difficult to cast with distance or accuracy;
2) The conventional bobber attachment to the line limits the amount of line that can be reeled up and hampers efforts to control fish (especially large ones) in that critical time when you've almost got 'em landed;
3) Their direct attachment tends to damage line.
bobbers solve all 3 of these problems quite nicely.
They can be fished at any depth, the line can be reeled all the way to the terminal tackle, and they do not damage line.
For any float to work, there has to be some point at
which the float is restrained from movement on the line.
Conventional bobbers do this by attaching directly to a fixed point on the line.
The key to slip bobbers is that they are not attached directly to the line, but they are limited in moving by a part that is tied onto the line.
This part is the line stop or stop knot.
A stop knot is small enough to pass easily through rod guides and reel mechanisms, but too large to pass through the stop bead on the slip bobber.
The stop knot is snugged tightly enough to resist movement under pressure from the bobber, but can still be moved along the line by the angler if he or she desires a different depth setting. Thus, the angler armed with a slip bobber can fish at any depth and is only limited by the depth of the lake or the amount of line on the spool.
Fishing the Boundary Waters Wilderness Area
Boundary Waters Canoe Area
--page last updated 09/2006--